HEIC to JPG
Drop your photos here to convert HEIC to JPG. The conversion runs on your own device, so nothing is uploaded, nothing waits in a queue and the photos stay yours.
Files are converted on your device and never uploaded. All metadata is removed, including camera model and GPS position. The capture date is not kept either.
iPhones have saved photos as HEIC since 2017, because the format holds about the same quality in half the space. The catch appears the moment a photo leaves the phone: Windows needs an extra codec, older photo software will not open the file at all, and plenty of upload forms reject the extension outright. JPG is understood everywhere, which is why converting is usually quicker than arguing with the format. Convert a whole batch at once and take it as a single ZIP, or switch the output to PNG when you need a lossless copy.
Frequently asked questions
Why are my iPhone photos HEIC and not JPG?
Because the high-efficiency setting is what the camera uses by default on every recent iPhone. HEIC stores the same picture in roughly half the space of a JPG, which is a real saving on a phone that holds thousands of them. If you would rather not convert again, open the camera settings and switch the format to the most compatible option: from then on the camera saves JPG. Photos taken before that stay HEIC.
How much bigger will the JPG be?
Usually around twice the size of the HEIC at the default quality. That is what a format from 1992 costs, and in return every program on earth can open it. The quality slider brings the size down; below roughly 80% the loss starts to show on skies, skin and other smooth gradients. PNG is a different trade: it is lossless and often several times larger than the original, so it is worth it only when you need an exact copy.
The converted photo looks flatter than the original. Why?
This converter writes a plain sRGB image. When the HEIC carries a wider color range or HDR data, those colors and highlights have to be squeezed into the narrower output, so on a screen that was just showing you the bright version, the copy can look darker or less vivid. The file is not damaged, but some of that color and brightness information is genuinely gone. If the exact colors matter, keep the HEIC as your master and convert only the copies you send out.
What happens to the location and the rest of the photo data?
All of it is removed. The converted file carries no GPS coordinates, no camera model and no lens or exposure data, which is exactly what you want before sending a photo to someone you do not know or posting it publicly. The capture date goes with it, so your file manager sorts the results by the moment you converted them rather than the moment you took them. Keep the originals if those dates matter to you.
Can I get PNG instead of JPG?
Yes, switch the output under the drop area, where it says "Save as", to PNG. PNG is lossless, so nothing is thrown away a second time: that suits screenshots, scanned documents and anything you plan to edit further. For ordinary photos JPG is the better deal, because the same picture as PNG is usually several times heavier with nothing visible to show for it.
My iPhone handed over a JPG instead of a HEIC. Why?
When a photo is picked from the photo library, iOS quietly converts it to JPG on the way out, so the converter receives a file that has already been converted. Nothing is broken, and there is nothing left to do. If you want the untouched original, pick the photo through the Files app instead of the photo library.
Are my photos uploaded anywhere?
No. Your browser decodes and re-encodes the file on your device, and nothing is sent to a server. One thing to know about working offline: HEIC is the one format almost no browser reads on its own, Safari on a Mac aside, so the first file you pick downloads a decoder. Once that sits in the cache, the tool keeps going even if the connection drops.